This looks promising, but I can’t get it to work.
Wireguard, even though they explicitly mention it in their tutorials, doesn’t have an allow/block list for me, so I can’t allow the proxy network bridge. Curious those settings are gone. Too bad!
This looks promising, but I can’t get it to work.
Wireguard, even though they explicitly mention it in their tutorials, doesn’t have an allow/block list for me, so I can’t allow the proxy network bridge. Curious those settings are gone. Too bad!
Thanks, but not an option.
Much obliged.
I agree, it’s a good solution. Just not worth the downsides for my situation currently.
Really? How does that work? Maybe it’s time to look into Tailscale after all…
Thanks for the ideas. I’ll consider it, although my use case doesn’t really warrant carrying a router around.
Having strong opinions is what Graphene does. 😅
And they do seem to be an authority on all things security, so most of the time I like that about them.
Thanks for the link. I am on Graphene, and if a fellow poster in here is correct that doesn’t help. Bummer.
Dang, also on Graphene…
here’s a thread with official Graphene voices saying it won’t happen (and why)
Right, thanks.
“authentication is not security,” can you elaborate on that?
Your statement doesn’t really overlap with my understanding of security, as “just access” seems critically relevant to how secure user data is, for example. Am I missing something?
EU servers might be worth something to some people, depending on where they are in the world. And while 190% is indeed “way more expensive”, relatively speaking, it’s still “well under” your goal of EUR 2 per month.
I’ve read good things about migadu. Haven’t used it myself.
It’s a tool to help counter dark patterns on YouTube. Youtube heavily incentivises sensationalism, click bait and silly highly emotional faces on the cover picture.
It’s very interesting to see how much less enticing your home feed looks with this enabled. Give it a try, you might like it!
Good job troubleshooting.
5V or 4.68V input isn’t meaningful. The sensor has some input range and 4.68V most definitely falls into that. Could be a design choice that has no real implications.
On the other hand, if the device normally supplies 5V, just yours doesn’t, then that’s further evidence you have a faulty controller.
My money is on faulty controller at this point, but I think you’ll need to find someone with electronics chops if you want to avoid just buying parts until it works again.
For what it’s worth, I didn’t mean take the sensor out of the wall, but just electrically unplug it from the controller to see what it does on its own when you turn on the water.
A frequency counter won’t really help you here, I think. You already know to expect ~VCC/2 when water is running, and either VCC or 0V if it isn’t. The speed of the square wave isn’t very relevant.
Oh and be careful if you do end up trying it.
There’s no safety risk in what I described, but reversing the power supply might very well fry the device.
Lay the page order out in Excel (might be a nice puzzle in itself), concatenate into a single comma separated string, and feed that into the “what pages to print” print dialog field?