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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 23rd, 2023

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  • Regarding your points:

    1. this just requires practice.

    2. the settings require more adjustment for sure. The voltage is set based on the wire diameter and metal temperature. Wire feed speed is set based on metal thickness. There are charts you can look up that give you good starting points for dialing the machine in.

    3. mig should have virtually zero spatter, and what is there should just brush off. If you’re getting a lot of spatter there are three likely issues: a) voltage is set too high b) contact tip to work piece is too far c) the material is dirty, such as rust or paint, heavy mill scale, or a coating like zinc or galvanizing like on aluminized exhaust tubing

    You’ll find that the more you use mig, the more you will prefer it. It’s an all around better process for home hobbiests and light fabrication.


  • Unfortunately, many of the problems you had with stick will follow you with flux core. Flux core as a process was intended to be more productive version of stick welding. It requires more heat than gas shielded mig to burn the flux to generate the shielding gases.

    If you can swing the extra cost for a solid wire mig welder and shielding gas, you will have a much easier time with any automotive welding. You might be able to struggle through an exhaust will flux core, but it’s going to be a struggle for sure.



  • The light from welding is orders of magnitude brighter than the sun or any led flash light you can hold to it. If it flashes at all holding it up to light then it will most likely work just fine when welding.

    Rest assured that even if you try to weld with it and it DOESN’T darken, the lens still protects from the uv rays. You should not continue to weld with it if it does not darken as it will so be bright and will strain your eyesight, but it won’t cause any physical harm to you.