• 68 Posts
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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: July 29th, 2023

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  • Follow up comment based on the edit: is the layer under the text supposed to be solid? Those gaps are very big. What does your first layer look like? If it’s fine your e-steps are way off (this would impact all the prints you’ve ever done), you have a partial clog (cold pull or just replace with a fresh brass nozzle since they’re cheap), your extruder is partially skipping, or your temp is too low.

    That said, no gaps in the text is progress so yay.



  • Since you haven’t gotten many real answers in either of your posts: be kind to your fellow humans and you’ll do well. If you’re a longer time redditor and/or mainly frequented smaller communities, you’ll do fine. If you’re newer to reddit and/or only hang out in the bigger communities maybe tone it down a touch? You can still shit post, just don’t do so from a troll’s perspective.

    Like reddit, your experience can depend wildly on the community you’re engaging with.

    Do keep in mind that the fediverse is tiny! Post and comment, just don’t lurk. That said, maybe try to not create two posts on basically the same topic. Also keep in mind that since this place isn’t that big, you will have people browsing all/new and all/hot that find your content and might react to it in a way that you wouldn’t expect from the people who frequent that community.



  • To do the e-step process on your ender 3, you would need to open your favorite notepad application, copy/paste the g-code on that site, save the text file as .gcode, and get that g-code to your ender 3 (SD card, etc).

    The same is true for the extrusion multiplier test - you would set the test up in your slicer, slice it, and then print. Some slicers, like orca slicer and super slicer, have a built in extrusion multiplier test that makes it very easy to do this.


  • Do you mean an A7 III with kit lens for 500€ and A7 IV for 600€?

    If yes, those numbers are way too low - at least for my market (USA). I would suspect scam/stolen/broken.

    That said, if they’re close to you and you can meet up to try the cameras out you might score a good deal. If the post is legit, and the cameras aren’t broken, these will move fast. How long has the listing been up? If it’s been up for more than a day or two and you’re in a densely populated area then it’s not looking good.


  • The upper right print, which is the only one that I can really see clearly, looks under extruded on the top layer. You either have a partial clog, your e-stepe might be ore, or if your printer has always produced top layers that look like that with the filament you’re currently using you need to calibrate (extrusion multiplier and/or temp).

    At a minimum, I suggest double checking e-steps (should take you about 1 minute after your extruder is hot) and your extrusion multiplier.

    I would also check the sliced preview. Ideally all the perimeters of the letters can be the same width. If this isn’t the case, tweak perimeter width until you get there. I’ve found this results in the lowest chances of having a gap in the middle of these types of thin multi-walled features.

    That said, FDM printers have was more resolution in the z axis than they do on x and y. You will be able to get cleaner text, but there’s only so far you can take it.




  • Safety features haven’t changed that much on major power tools in a long time, with the exception of stop saw. Don’t necessarily think old tools are inherently less safe, but let that fear of spinning blades cultivate respect for what they can do. At the end of the day, it’s all about keeping your fingers and body out of the blade path. This can be done with a mix of technique and some very basic tools.

    Chop saw

    • Does yours have a blade guard that retracts as the saw moves up and down? That’s the only safety innovation on these that I know about
    • Keep your fingers away from the saw bed and fence
    • Don’t hold your work piece to the saw fence with your hand, use a clamp
    • Don’t hold your work piece to the bed of the saw if it’s too long and falling over. You can either build/buy a stand or use an outfeed type table if the saw is on say the end of a counter/bench

    Table saw kick back

    • Do does yours have a Riving knife? If yes, good. If no, does it have provisions for one? Go buy one and install it pronto. Riving knives prevent kickback, which occurs when the far side of the blade (spinning up) catches/lifts the wood you’re cutting. This can result in one of two things: you reach for the wood that’s lifting and put your finger in the blade path and/or the wood lifts, the blade catches it, and the piece of wood gets thrown in your ganeral direction
    • if possible, stand off-center to the piece of wood you’re cutting so it can’t hit you if it does kick back
    • If you see the wood lifting, then the saw off then think

    Table saw other ideas

    • Use push blocks and/or push sticks. These don’t have to be fancy and you can absolutely make your own out of a piece of wood. I would personally avoid blocks or sticks that only rely on friction. The last thing you want is for one to slip and put your hand (or body) in the blade path
    • Speaking of bodies, do not lean over the table saw! You don’t want to slip and fall into the blade
    • If you have a fence and are ripping narrow pieces of wood, use a featherboard to keep the wood against the fence
    • Buy or make a cross cut sled. This will make your cuts more consistent and keep your fingers out of the way
    • Speaking of sleds, table saw jigs are your friend if you’re making repetitive cuts


  • What kind of degree are you pursuing? I’m an ECE and went through college a while ago with a convertible laptop (the screen turned around and flipped over to become a tablet). These days days they’re marketed as 2-in-1 laptops.

    I took all my notes on that thing, did all my homework/projects/labs, etc. It was great to be 100% digital.

    As far as laptops go, I’ll echo buying used. You can find 2-4 year old off leanse enterprise laptops all day for under $500 on places like eBay. Enterprise laptops tend to be well built and are usually, but not always, upgradeable in terms of storage/memory. Budget laptops, even from name brands, aren’t always as durable.